Sambistas Blogs

This page holds a cultural and nightlife calendar for the cities of Recife and Olinda. It is updated often. If you're planning to be in Olinda/Recife, bookmark this page and visit it near the date of your visit for a full itinerary of cultural activities, nightlife and music. This post was last updated on March 9.

TUESDAY MARCH 9

- TERÇA NEGRA: At the Pátio de São Pedro in downtown Recife, catch Terça Negra every Tuesday night, a celebration of Afro-Brazilian culture starting at 19h. Performing: Essência Reggae, Iabás (hip hop) and Afoxé Axé Ifá.

THURSDAY MARCH 11

- BURBURINHO: Every Thursday in March catch "Vinil e Outras Cozinhas", hosted by DJ440, at Bar Burburinho (Rua Tomazina, 106 - Recife Antigo). Cover: R$3.

FRIDAY MARCH 12

- ENCONTRO DE PERCUSSIONISTAS: Percussionist Mestre Lua will guest the 7th Encontro de Percussionistas in Olinda, starting at 18h, in front of the Igreja do Rosário dos Pretos (turn right after the Igreja do Amparo). Free.

- PARABÉNS, OLINDA: Olinda turns 475 years old and, as always, a big celebration is planned. Starting at 15h the politicians will hold their ceremony at the Rua 15 de novembro, then marching around the historic center with frevo and giant dolls until the town hall (Palácio dos Governadores), where the official opening takes place from 18-19h (including the cutting of the 475 pound cake, and the fight over a slice). After 19h, a stage will feature Spok Frevo Orquestra, Alceu Valença, D´Breck and Patusco, while the following groups will march around the hills of the historic center: Escola de Samba Preto Velho (Alto da Sé), Pitombeira (27 de janeiro), Elefante (Amparo), Vassourinhas (Amparo), Flor da Lira (Amparo), Marim dos Caetés (Amparo), O Bagaço é Meu (Bonsucesso), Maracatu Leão Formoso (Amparo) and Encontro de Ursos (Prudente de Moraes).

- PARABÉNS, RECIFE: It's also Recife's birthday, and the cake will be cut at the Praça do Arsenal in Recife Antigo. At night, catch shows at Marco Zero, with Elba Ramalho, Zé Ramalho, Geraldo Azevedo, Lenine, Chico César and Alcione. Free.

- PÁTIO SONORO: As part of a special tribute to Chico Science, every Friday in March will feature local bands and artists at the Pátio de São Pedro in downtown Recife. On March 12, catch A banda de Joseph Tourton (20h) and Julia Says (21h30). On March 19, catch Mojav Duo (20h) and Radistae (21h30). On March 26, catch Jr. Black (21h30). Free.

- SEU CHICO CONVIDA: Every Friday in March the group Seu Chico will invite musicians to share the stage with them in a show called "Seu Chico Convida". Among the guests are Lula Queiroga, China, Petrúcio Amorim and Maestro Forró. Together they'll perform songs from Chico Buarque and from the invited guest. Where: Dona Carolina (Rua Arthur Muniz, 82, Boa Viagem). Cover is R$25 for men, R$20 for women.

- SAMBA: The band Inferninho Samba Orquestra will perform every Saturday at the Quintal do Lima (Rua Capitão Lima, 100, Santo Amaro, Recife) with special guests on March 12 and March 19. Cover is R$10.

- SERESTA: Every Friday night at 22h a seresta (serenade) takes over the streets of Olinda, leaving from the Praça Conselheiro João Alfredo (Igreja de São Pedro Mártir) and marching around town, singing classic songs accompanied by violins, guitars and other instruments.

SATURDAY MARCH 13

- COCO: Every Saturday in March catch coco de roda at the Quintal do Lima (Rua Capitão Lima, 100, Santo Amaro, Recife). On March 13, catch Casas Populares da BR 232 and Aurinha do Coco. On March 20, catch Adiel Luna e Coco Camará with guest Mestre Galo Preto. Finally, on march 27, catch Adiel Luna e Coco Camará with guests from grupo Bongar and Pandeiro do Mestre. The shows start at 22h and cover is R$7.

- AFOXE: At the GRES Preto Velho (Alto da Sé in Olinda), catch afoxé starting at 19h30.

SUNDAY MARCH 14

- SAMBA: At the GRES Preto Velho (Alto da Sé in Olinda), catch a samba rehearsal starting at 19h30.

MARCH 20

- TANGOLOMANGO: This is the first 2010 edition of this regular party. On stage, Faringes da Paixão, Sonora Samba Groove and DJ 440. At the Bar Burburinho in Recife Antigo. Starts at 23h. Cover is R$15.

MARCH 26

- MERCADO DA MUSICA: The project called Mercado da Música, at the Mercado Eufrásio Barbosa in Olinda, will feature Pedro Luís e a Parede, Chine and DJ 440. More info soon.

Classical music takes over the churches in Recife and Olinda during the month of March. Click the image above for the entire programming.

Heading back to London tomorrow. Its been strange staying so long after carnival - past the post carnaval blues stage and well into the normal swing of life here. After weeks of unbroken skies and sweltering heat of 40+ degrees, a cold front swung in a week ago and temperatures have plummeted by 20 degrees or so. Suddenly everyone is wearing long trousers, boots, cardigans. The beach has been rained off for over a week. Rio is changing fast. I´ve seen things that I wouldnt havRead More...

Read more about this at http://www.tdsounds.co.uk/rio-carnival-blog.html

Let´s back up now... to Carnaval weekend.

The Grupo A parade night was overwhelming. Because of the scandal last year, in which the lowest two escolas did not get demoted as they should have, Grupo A was overloaded this year. It´s got 12 different escolas that all had to parade on the same night! (Grupo Especial only does 6 escolas per night.) Yes, each parade is shorter than in Grupo Especial, just 55 minutes in Grupo A compared to 1:22 in Especial. But that´s still 12 hours of parades for Grupo A, and the problem is that the last escola or two ends up parading past dawn.

The last escola on this Saturday parade night was Cubango. (which means Cubango would really be parading early Sunday morning.) I´d already paraded with Imperio Serrano earlier that evening, in an ala. I´d met up with Imperio at about 6pm, spend several hours finding my ala (a 45 min process), socializing and singing the song and getting ready and getting lined up and getting through security and getting excited, then the parade, then the post-parade festivities and singing and chatting and... so, it was nearly midnight and I was already completed exhausted and footsore and hoarse. I limped all the way back home (on foot from the Sambodromo) to change my costume. Cubango wouldn´t go on till maybe 6am and in theory I had time to take a little nap. But I was way too wound up. How could anybody sleep when there were ESCOLA PARADES going on at the Sambodromo?

(I had a friend who had twisted my arm into letting him crash on my apartment floor, and he actually WAS trying to sleep. Yes, he had the impossible and bizarre plan of actually SLEEPING during the nights on Carnaval weekend. It was then that I discovered that escola people and non-escola people really are two different species. OK, so, here´s a warning to ANYBODY who EVER tries to crash with me during Carnaval weekend, especially if you spring it on me unexpectedly: I will be up ALL night, EVERY night, till PAST DAWN, and I will be running in and out of the apartment CONSTANTLY, right past you, and I will need to TURN ON THE LIGHT, and I will be moving enormous costumes and hats around, and I will have the TV constantly on to see which escola is currently parading. DON´T SAY YOU HAVEN´T BEEN WARNED.)

OK, so, I was trying to change into my Cubango bateria fantasia. There are 270 drummers in the bateria and we were all dressed up as 270 identical Philippe Pinels. Philippe Pinel, as I´m sure you know, was the founder of the first insane asylum in Rio de Janeiro.

So before I go any further, I need to explain about Cubango´s enredo (the parade theme) and the samba (the song).

Like a good puppy I´d been spending the last couple weeks carefully memorizing the Cubango samba. (Because I think it is critically important, if you are a gringo parading with an escola, to make sure you know the entire song. Especially because otherwise you can make other gringos look bad. Like it or not, you are representing All Gringos Worldwide when you are in an escola, and your actions will affect the fate of other gringos there in the future.) Anyway. I´d been carrying around a tiny little wadded-up scrap of paper with the lyrics to the Cubango samba, which I would pull out and study whenever I was on a bus. The Cubango samba was, as usual for samba-enredos, very long and completely mystifying. I had dutifully looked up all the words that I didn´t know. But it still wasn´t making any sense! The title didn´t even make any sense! ("The crazies of the beach called nostalgia") And then there were all these mystifying phrases about "shirts of force taking memories" and "haunted, the artist painted" and "bossa nova, a hymn against oppression and a scandalous nudity" and "I raised my flag of rights now... with painted face, I went to protest". I could just barely discern a thread of narrative about protesting the government and about crazy kings, but what on earth was it all about?

The thing about these samba-enredos is, every one of those strange phrases is usually a fascinating little morsel of Brazilian history, all rolled up into a dense, impenetrable little packet. If you can decode it, unpack it, you actually will learn a lot about Brazil.

I turned to my friends Renata and Brian one night for help, in the Sambodromo as we were waiting for an escola rehearsal. Renata, a Brazilian who grew up in Sao Paulo, took one look at the second verse ("rights now... painted faces...")and immediately said "Rights now! Painted faces! I did that! When I was a student! I was there!" Turns out this was a reference to the great student protests a decade back, when busloads of thousands of idealistic young college students painted their faces (to hide their identities) and went to Brasilia to try to impeach the president. And they were all carrying banners and placards that bore the slogan of the protest movement, "Rights now!" (Diretas ja.)

AHA. That explained maybe 1/4 of the song.

However, the rest of the song was still eluding us. We puzzled over the "shirts of force" and the "bossa nova...forbidden nudity" and the "crazies on the beach called nostalgia" and we developed some very poetic and creative explanations that I was rather pleased with.

Till Daniel (my Cubango friend) said one day "You know the song is about Rio´s first insane asylum, right?" What?!

Sooo, Daniel had the inside scoop because he´d actually been at Cubango on the night when the carnavalesco was explaining all about the parade theme. So. Here´s the deal. Rio de Janeiro´s first insane asylum was built, years ago, on a beach in Urca. It´s now called the Red Beach. But that beach used to be called...back in the old days... wait for it... NOSTALGIA BEACH. (Praia de Saudade.) "The crazies of the beach called nostalgia." AHA. Nostalgia is the NAME OF THE BEACH, duh! (So much for my super-creative poetic explanation for that line of the song...) The "shirts of force" is not a circuitously metaphorical reference to governmental powers; "shirts of force" are STRAITJACKETS. (There goes creative explanation #2...) The "haunted artist" was an actual famous artist who did some famous paintings while he was in the insane asylum. (There goes creative explanation #3...)

The insane asylum was eventually shuttered and the building sat empty for some years. Much later, it was re-opened to be used as a university, and became famous as the site of many of student protests... including some students who painted their faces and took those protest buses to Brasilia! aha!

As for the bossa nova and the nudity: In the late 1950s a music show was scheduled at one of Rio´s Catholic universities. It was to featuring several young players and songwriters who were developing a "new way" of playing samba, with sophisticated harmonic structures and a distinctive phrasing to their songs. But the Catholic university discovered that the hostess of the show would be an actress who had once done an infamous nude scene in a movie. This did not sit well with the Catholic priests of the 1950s. So they booted the whole show off their campus. So at the last second the concert organizers had to find a new venue for the show, and they found one: at a different university, in Urca, right by Nostalgia Beach, in a building that had once been an insane asylum. That show became one of the most famous Rio shows ever, because it was the birth of "bossa nova"...the "new way" of playing samba.

See what I mean? I learned so much Brazilian history, and Rio history, and cultural history and music history, from this one Cubango song!

So anyway. That´s why the entire bateria was all dressed up as Philippe Pinel, one of the first psychiatrists in the world and an advocate of the benefits of actually treating mentally people instead of just exiling them to the streets. He was born in 1745 in France. So our outfit was:

an enormous french lieutenant´s hat with a fake white wig
A golden vest, covered by
an enormous knee-length white surcoat decorated in gold braid, tied shut by
A huge golden tie, tied around the neck, and
two big lacy golden-decorated cuffs around the long sleeves of the coat
a pair of green velvet trousers
White knee-high socks
and a pair of white leather shoes with big brass buckles.

The sun was going to rise during our parade. It was going to be about 95F.

All in the service to our beloved escola CUBANGO!

I've been away from email again - just switched apartments and now I am crashing with a friend in Botafogo who does not have internet in her apartment. So, apologies for the lack of blog posts. I might not be able to catch up till I am out at Chapada Diamantina in Bahia later this week... (Because that's exactly why you take a plane ride and then a 6 hr bus ride to a remote beautiful national park full of gorgeous hiking trails: to spend all your time on your laptop holed up in your pousada writing blog posts. Right??)

Anyway - last Saturday I went scuba diving at a little town east of Rio with two friends, my dear rock-climbing friend Andrezza, and a friend of hers, a professional circus performer called Vera. Vera had just recently finished a full year's tour of the United States in a high-end travelling circus, where she performs aerial acrobatics - she's one of those people who twirl around, high above the ground, on long lengths of fabric.

We'd only just begun the scuba day when Vera said something under her breath that got Andrezza doubled over in stitches. Turned out Vera had referred to our handsome scuba instructor as "Altamente Pegável" - "Highly Pick-up-able". Later on, in the car ride back home, Andrezza repeated this to me and as we were both buckled over laughing about it, Vera calmly undertook to instruct us both in the concept of Altamente Pegável, saying, "Vou explicar as niveis." (I will explain the levels.) Which turned out to be:

1. De jeito nenhum. (No way / Under no circumstances.)
2. Feio. (Ugly)
3. Quase Feio. (Almost ugly.)
4. Normal. (Normal, or rather, "nor-MOW")
5. Bonito. (Pretty.)
6. Muito Bonito. (Very pretty.)
7. Lindo. (Lovely/beautiful. hm, interesting that Lindo is better than Bonito)
8. Altamente Pegável. (Highly Pick-Up-Able. Someone you'd definitely sleep with.)
9. Altamente Ficável. (Highly Stay-With-Able. Someone you'd actually live with.)
10. Nirvana.

See, you something new every day here! My favorite Portuguese lessons always come from my friends....

Later, after the scuba (which was fantastic!), we were all at a little corner shop having an açaí. A crazy man was wandering in and out of the shop - seriously, he seemed truly deranged, full of hallucinations and delusions. (He reminded me of the time I met the Devil in a coffeeshop in Seattle, or at least a fellow who believed he was the Devil.) He was chattering so fast and slurring his words so much that I couldn't quite make out what he was saying, but he seemed to be saying he was an international pilot who flew frequently to New York and who used to fly the Concorde. Okay...not that this is impossible, but, coming from a rather odd man in a tiny fishing town on the coast of Brazil, it seemed a bit unlikely. We must have looked skeptical, so the man asked Vera:

"So what are you then, a psychologist?"

And she said,

"No, I'm a circus acrobat."

Oh, the LOOK ON HIS FACE! He yelled "MENTIRA!!!" (Lie!), got extremely excited, went off on a huge rant and stormed out of the açaí shop.

The best thing was, she really is a circus acrobat! She was only telling the truth!

He wasn't too mad for long, though - he came running back in a few minutes later with a tiny portable radio held up to his ear, yelling "I AM DETECTING SIGNS OF LIFE!"

It was that kind of day. To sum it up... I was surrounded by strange and beautiful Brazilian wildlife all day.

I´ve posted up all of the results of all of the leagues of samba schools in Rio Carnival 2010. You can find them here.

Read more about this at http://www.tdsounds.co.uk/rio-carnival-blog.html

The Orquestra Contemporânea de Olinda will be performing in the Unites States during March and April. They start off at the SXSW music festival in Austin, then go on to New Orleans, New York, Washington DC and Miami. This is one of the best bands in Olinda's current music scene, so if you get the chance do not miss this opportunity! For more, visit their MySpace by clicking here.

DJ 440 presents: Vinil e outras cozinhas
Where: Bar Burburinho, Rua Tomazina, 106 - Recife Antigo
When: Every Thursday in March at 19h.
Cover: R$3

The Monobloco parade is over... my very last parade... and Carnaval is truly over, and I've gone into nearly completely hibernation. I'm overdue by at least three major blog posts (one each on Cubango, Monobloco and Banga), but I think I've spent at least three days asleep in recovery. Getting over my stubborn cold, catching up on sleep. It's the Ressaca do Carnaval, the Carnaval hangover.

The worst part of the ressaca for us foreigners is saying goodbye to all our friends, as one after another they leave town and flown back north - first Renata and Brian (well, actually, they flew west), then the Germans, then Philip and his American crew, Ben, then JP, and now even dear Xuxa has left me. And Wendy goes tomorrow.

And next will be ME. I have ten days in Bahia coming up - the end of my trip - which means I leave Rio next Thursday - which means today is the first day of my last week in Rio! argh!!!! That means that every time I see one of my Rio friends it might be for the last time. Dudu at Banga on Saturday, Freddy at Monobloco last Sunday, talking to me about killer whales (in what sort of crazy universe do I live in that my brilliant Monobloco caixa leader also turns out to have a degree in marine biology???) - Daniel and his extremely lovely wife at Xuxa's party decoding all sorts of Brazilian cultural mysteries for me - Chris, laughing and taking pictures and belting out "You Light Up My Life" at the top of her lungs (Chris is a Brazilian cultural mystery all by herself) - Denise, last night, dancing forro with me at Democratikos... will it be a year or more before I see any of them again??

I avoid the goodbyes by not saying goodbye, by just saying "See you soon". Which is true enough. Whether in this world or the next.

My main consolation is the wonderful dawning realization that since I won't be teaching next year in Portland, maybe I'll be able to come back to Rio next year! Except, of course, I won't have any money to pay for the plane ticket! Or the rent! Since I don't have a job! I'll be holed up in Jerry's place in Seattle, or Pat's house in Hood River, or living with benevolent family members ("Who's that in the back room making those strange noises?" "Oh, that's my crazy old aunt... she was never the same after she came back from Brazil...just sits in there banging on that weird little snare drum all day") Maybe playing pandeiro on the street for pennies, standing on street corners with one of those hand-scrawled cardboard signs: "WILL TEACH BIOLOGY OR SAMBA FOR FOOD". (All the neighbors will be saying, "man, we thought the crack addicts were bad enough... but then the homeless drummers showed up! hell!")

Got to earn some money. So I've actually spent a lot of time this week revising my CV and sending out job apps left and right. To textbook publishers, to odd teaching jobs here and there, to my fieldwork friends. A few short-term contract jobs have materialized pretty quickly (two textbook jobs that I'm working on right now, a summer bird job)... pretty good for a week's effort, I just need to get more! Got to get enough jobs to not only break even, and pay my health insurance (which IS MORE MY THAN MY RENT - why oh why do I live in such a messed up country!), but also put some savings into that special savings pot: The Carnaval savings account.

Next up: Cubango. Monobloco. Bangalafumenga.

After the Carnaval break, Cinema São Luiz in downtown Recife (Rua da Aurora, número 175, Boa Vista) reopens this week, starting on Tuesday, February 23. Ticket prices are R$4 (half for students). On the schedule:

16h15 - Lula, O Filho do Brasil (Lula's biographical drama)

19h00 - O Homem que Engarrafava Nuvens (a David Byrne documentary on one of forró´s greatest composers, Humberto Teixeira)

In the end I DID parade with Salgueiro on the Sunday of carnival. The costume was indeed hot, and heavy, but it was all manageable. The trick is to drink pots and pots of water beforehand, and not to put on the thickly padded cloak, or the hat and shoes, until the last possible minute. Once you get inside the area reserved for costumed participants, theres plenty of chemical toilets, and theres plenty more at the end of the parade, too. There was a certain amount of unease at having a fRead More...

Read more about this at http://www.tdsounds.co.uk/rio-carnival-blog.html

Just got back from a stunning Monobloco show last night, and am trying to prepare mentally for what is bound to be a boiling hot, can-I-survive-till-the-end, ultra-marathon type of life experience at the Monobloco parade tomorrow on the Rio Branco. The Rio Branco parades are getting completely out of control - the bloco Bola Preta's last three parades there drew half a million people, a million people, and (last week) a million and a half people. So how many will Monobloco draw?

Well, this happens to be is Monobloco's 10th anniversary, and they've put together a marvelous display of photos and memorabilia at the Fundicao, including some handy data on all their 9 parades so far since 2001:

2001 - 10,000 people attend the first Monobloco parade in Gávea.
2002 - 20,000 people attend. Parade moves to the Jardim Botanico.
2003 - 50,000 people. (Back to Gávea)
2004 - 50,000 (moves to Ipanema beach)
2005 - 80,000
2006 - 80,000
2007 - 100,000 (outgrows Ipanema, moves to Copacabana beach. This was my first parade with them)
2008 - 100,000
2009 - 400,000 (outgrows Copacabana, moves to the Rio Branco)

Here's the newspaper pic of the 2009 parade. Can you find the band?



Extending this trend into the future, we can confidently predict that Monobloco's parade in the year 2039 will be attended by the entire population of Earth. Well, we'll see what happens tomorrow!

The results for the lower Carnaval escola levels were just announced, and it has become clear that this is a big year for the Zona Sul escolas! The most famous samba escolas are all based in the north zone of Rio, Zona Norte, far from the famous beaches of Zona Sul. But there are plenty of samba escolas in Zona Sul too. This year, not one but THREE escolas of Zona Sul are champions or vice-champions of their respective leagues: Sao Clemente (representing Botafogo) won Grupo A, Alegria da Zona Sul (representing Copacabana/Ipanema) won Grupo 1 (the old "Grupo B"), and Unidos da Villa Rica (also based in Copacabana) came in 2nd place in Grupo 3 (= "Grupo D"). (In the lower divisions, the top 2 or 3 escolas all go up, so coming in 2nd is as good as winning - it earns you a promotion to the next group up.)

Interestingly, all these escolas are based in favelas that have recently been "pacified" by the UPP, which I gather is a division of police aimed at bringing some measure of peace to the favelas (Rio's famously crime-ridden hillside shantytowns). The UPP seems to go into favelas one at a time and occupies them permanently, trying to drive out the drug traffickers. I don't know much about it, so anyone who knows more about the UPP, please comment and tell us what it is all about!

I'm translating an O Globo article below. I especially wanted to put the word out about Alegria da Zona Sul, since I know several international sambistas who have run into Alegria while they were rehearsing along Copacabana beach, and were wondering who they were. Now you know! I played with them couple times and they were very friendly and welcoming. Their quadra is perched on top of the favela that is between Copacabana and Ipanema.


****
Carnaval of the UPPs is Champion in Zona Sul
from O Globo, Saturday 20 Feb 2010
by Rafael Galdo
(translated by KH. Link to original article here)

In the favelas of Zona Sul that have UPPs (Unidades de Polícia Pacificadora, or Pacification Police Units), this year's Carnaval was a champion Carnaval, literally. Practially all of the escolas-de-samba in these communities ended up winning and will go up one level in the lower groups of the Rio Carnaval. São Clemente, which is partly composed of members from Botafogo and its favelas, like the Dona Marta favela and the stretch of Tabajaras in the neighborhood, won Grupo de Acesso and will parade in Grupo Especial next year. Likewise, Alegria da Zona Sul, representing the neighborhoods of Pavão-Pavãozinho and Cantagalo [in Copacabana], won the title of the "Rio de Janeiro 1" group (old group B). Unidos da Villa Rica, from the Tabajaras hill in Copacabana, won 2nd place in "Rio de Janeiro III" (old group D).

These escolas now intend to take advantage of the moment, along with the peace and the visibility that have come to these communities with the arrival of the UPPs, to grow and gain more members. Roberto Gomes, director of São Clemente, remembers that in 2003, when the escola moved its rehearsals to its quadra in Centro [downtown Rio, far from Botafago], some members of Botafogo stopped coming. Today, most of its members come Centro and from Zona Norte. But their goal is to continue their recent project to reconnect with the communities of Zona Sul.

"This year, we had alas [parade sections] from Tabajaras and the Dona Marta favela (both "pacified"). The result was much stronger singing in the Avenida on parade day. Pretty soon, we're planning to bring several of our projects, like percussion classes and dance classes, to favelas like Tabajaras," he said.

In the case of Alegria da Zona Sul, the president, Marcus Vinícius de Almeida, pointed out that the benefits of UPP and the works of the "Programa de Aceleração do Crescimento" (PAC) [program for accelerating growth] in Pavão-Pavãozinho and Cantagalo need to also include escolas-de-samba, which are one of the principal leisure opportunities in those communities.

According to him, the escola has social projects which could be started or increased in partnership with these groups. In addition, the members of Alegria da Zona Sul hope for a renovation of their quadra [rehearsal hall], on the top of the Estrada do Cantagalo. A renovation has been promised by PAC.

"The ideal, however, would be to move it lower down the hill. This would facilitate access for "people of the asphalt" [richer people who live in the paved streets in the lower areas] as well as the residents of the hill," said Almeida. "However, the view of the community we have today is quite something. And we are here with open doors for all residents of Copacabana, Ipanema or of any other place."

Antonio Justino da Silva, 82 years old and a member of the "Old Guard" of Alegria, remembers that this union between "the hill and the asphalt" had already existed in the escola before UPP, with the rehearsals that the escola does down on the Avenida Atlantica [on the beach of Copacabana]. But he has noticed that, recently, more residents of the Zona Sul neighborhoods are coming to the escola, including the party to celebrate the title, the day before yesterday. And Armando Fernandes, composer for the escola says as well:

"I believe that these visits from "people of the asphalt" will increase even more soon, because they'll have less fear of coming to our quadra. In Grupo de Acesso, I think that Alegria will have greater visibility and will come into fashion."

The only escola of the "pacified communities" that was not a champion or vice-champion was Mocidade Unida de Santa Marta, which came in 6th place in Grupo Rio de Janeiro 3 (old group D).

Here's interestingly little news item in the paper today about Grupo A. The background: Last year (2009), organization of Grupo was turned over to a group called LESGA. The president of LESGA is also the president of the escola Inocentes de Belford Roxo. In the 2009 Carnaval, Inocentes finished near the bottom and should, according to the rules, have been sent down to Grupo B. Amazingly, no escola was sent down at all - quite contrary to the rules, and leaving Grupo A overflowing with 12 escolas instead of the usual 10.
The 2010 Carnaval results were so surprising they resulted in a near-riot at the Grupo A score announcement earlier this week. Many people have commented that Inocentes placed freakishly high for what was rather an unimpressive parade (Inocentes finished 2nd) and that Rocinha, Cubango and Unidos de Padre Miguel were all scored unfairly low. In another departure from normal protocol, the names of the judges this year were not announced till just before Carnaval.
It is typical for escolas to complain after low scores, but the situation in Grupo A right now seems especially heated.

From today's O Globo newspaper (Saturday 20 Feb 2010):

Escolas Threaten Rebellion in Grupo de Acesso
by Paulo Marqueiro, with Alice Fernandes
(translated by KH. Link to original version here)

Grupo de Acesso (Grupo A) is in an uproar. Just days after the announcement of the results of the parade, in which São Clemente was the winner, several escolas are threatening to "turn the baiana" [cause a loud public commotion] against the League of Escolas de Samba of Grupo de Acesso (LESGA). Directors of the escolas intend to meet in the coming days with the president of the Independent League of Escolas de Samba (LIESA), Jorge Castanheira, who coordenates the Carnaval of Grupo Especial, to ask that either LIESA take over the administration of the Grupo A parades, or that the city of Rio re-take control of the event.

The escola heads had already been dissatisfied with LESGA before Saturday's parade, and the dissatisfaction only grew after the tumultuous reading of the scores last Tuesday. The president of Acadêmicos da Rocinha, Maurício Mattos, one of the most rebellious, questioned the result, which left his escola in 10th place at the edge of being sent down (to Grupo B). He said that the sambistas in Grupo A were only told who the judges would be on the Wednesday before Carnaval.

"In the list of judges, Fernando Bicudo was the only person we recognized. The rest were unknown," criticized Maurício Mattos. "I believe the objective was to make Rocinha descend to Grupo de Acesso B."

In an article published in GLOBO on Feb. 11, mayor Eduardo Paes said that the city government has no interest in re-assuming the administration of the Grupo de Acesso parade, but that they will not permit abuses. Paes was referring to the scores of the 2009 Carnaval, the first one coordinated by LESGA. Contrary to the rules, no escola descended to Grupo B that year, which left Grupo A with 12 escolas parading in just one night.

In the parade this year, Inocentes de Belford Roxo, the escola of the president of LESGA, Reginaldo Gomes, ended in 2nd place. Estácio was in third; Acadêmicos de Santa Cruz, fourth; Império da Tijuca, fifth; Império Serrano, sixth. In 11th place was Unidos de Padre Miguel, and in 12th Paraíso do Tuiuti, both sent down to Grupo de Acesso B.

The president of LESGA could not be reached to comment on the confusion in Grupo A.

Lapa Things get crazy over carnaval, and its hard to keep up with a blog. But its Friday after carnaval, which was supposed to end on Wednesday, and I´ve just got back from Lapa, where the party is still going strong. Tonight there was the bloco ´So Tamborins´, which I have always been curious about. And Afroreggae, who I adore for their philosophy, their work in the favellas and their funky, tight music which forces me to dance. First, the ´Just Tamborins´ bloco.  Is Read More...

Read more about this at http://www.tdsounds.co.uk/rio-carnival-blog.html

Immediately after the great Unidos da Tijuca victory on Ash Wednesday, the great heat wave broke. The scalding sunny sky disappeared, the clouds closed in, the rain thundered down. I woke in the night with an extremely strange sensation... I was COLD. Actually, I was being rained on! A frigid wind was blowing icy raindrops all over me. I had to go close the window and even had to get one of those, what are they called, those covery-up things, a "blanket"! It was the most delicious sensation.. shivering, curling up under the blanket. Nothing makes you enjoy cold like three consecutive weeks of 100+ temperatures.

However, I woke up the next day sick, with a sore throat, splitting headache, nausea and absolute thundering exhaustion...the inevitable outcome of five days in a row of staying up all night (followed only by feverish quick naps from 8am to about 11am, when it got too hot to sleep anymore). My first thought was: wait a minute, this isn't fair - if I'm going to have hangover symptoms like this, I ought at least to have gotten to drink something the night before! But no, I was genuinely sick. Stayed in bed sleeping all day, woke up at 5pm and tottered out for some groceries. Slept most of today too... it seems like the whole city, not just me, the whole sky too, is in a kind of depression after Carnaval. Everything seems eerily sad and gray and quiet. A lot of the Lapa clubs are closed. (Actually we've still got a fun weekend coming up, the post-Carnaval weekend with the huge Monobloco parade. But the escola rehearsals are all done... sad...)

Then today I was poking around one of the samba websites and noticed a tiny counter in the upper right hand corner that read:
"379 dias para Carnaval 2011"

And simultaneously the page refreshed to reveal a new news item that Salgueiro has just announced its theme for the 2011 Carnaval (their theme will be Italy). And so it begins again...The great cycle of life, or the cycle of Carnaval, anyway. Nothing ever really ends. It's never really over. There's always another Carnaval to look forward to.

On Monday we started the day at the Casa da Rabeca (Cidade Tabajara, Olinda) at the opening ceremonies for the encounter of maracatu de baque solto. After the governor and mayor (and others) spoke, the party started at the Ilumiara Zumbi square, with dozens of maracatus. Meanwhile, at the Casa da Rabeca itself, we saw caboclinho groups and the Cuban group Steel Band. It was a fantastic day, with a manageable, friendly crowd. I continue to insist that this is a wonderful place to spend Sunday or Monday during Carnaval, as well as the Festa de São João and the December Holiday parties.





In the evening we headed to Recife once again. We saw a boi group (didn't catch the name, sorry!), followed by the Bloco da Saudade. The streets of Recife Antigo were packed with people and blocos! Later in the evening we visited Praça do Arsenal, RecBeat and Patio de São Pedro, where we watched an amazing show by Karina Buhr.



But after Saturday, Sunday and Monday we were getting tired, and it was time to put a close to Carnaval.

On Tuesday we visited Olinda during the day, catching a bit of Patusco, some of the giant dolls, and partying with Bloco do Teteu. In the afternoon the hangover (resaca) started settling in, and I still have no recovered.

But there's always next year! Hopefully our coverage of Carnaval inspires you to visit Olinda and Recife in 2011!

Complete list of Grupo Especial results. The most shocking thing is: Viradouro has fallen to grupo A! Equally shocking, Viradouro's fall also means that Uniao da Ilha has accomplished the near impossible - it has STAYED in Grupo Especial instead of falling right back to Grupo A, as the Grupo A winner normally does. Ilha is truly back in Especial! And now they won't have to parade first on Sunday night any more, so they're likely back in Especial to stay. They must be thrilled.

1. Unidos da Tijuca
2. Grande Rio
3. Beija-Flor
4. Vila Isabel
5. Salgueiro
6. Mangueira
The above escolas will be in the Parade of Champions on Saturday night.

7. Mocidade
8. Imperatriz
9. Portela
10. Porto da Pedra
11. Uniao da Ilha (last year's Grupo A winner)
12. Viradouro (falls to Grupo A)

I went to the Sambodromo for the apuracao, the formal reading of the Sambodromo results. The scores are read out one at a time by a deep-voiced announcer standing at the base of the arches of the Sambodromo. He definitely takes particular pleasure from dramatic pauses: "Unidos da Tijuca....." [pause] ".... DEZ!!!" (ten! the maximum score) The bigwigs, presidents of the escolas and such, were in 12 nicely shaded tables down on the ground level. The rest of us, the riffraff, the diehard fans, were gathered in the nearest bleachers of Setor 6 and 13. I went up into Setor 13 and found the fans had quite precisely sorted themselves into tidy contingents for each escola. Not all escolas had fans present - Portela seemed to be represented by 1 lone fellow with a Portela banner; only about 5 escolas had major contingents present. Setor 13 turned out to be inhabited primarily by a healthy contingent of Mocidade fans on my right, a rabid pack of Beija-Flor fans in the middle, Grande Rio fans on my left (relatively few of them but with an absolutely enormous flag that was bigger than anybody else's. Classic Grande Rio!). And up high above us, in the highest seats, were the Vila Isabel people. Whenever Vila Isabel got a 10, the Vila Isabel people would race back and forth along the empty seats of the upper bleachers waving their blue-and-white flags.

I'm pretty fond of Mocidade and Beija-Flor, but I have also always had a soft spot for Unidos da Tijuca and their parade really impressed me this year. So I was looking around for a Tijuca contingent and soon realized they were over in Setor 6, small but very vocal, and flanked by two huge Mangueira contingents on either side. They looked like they were about to be swallowed by Mangueira. I suddenly knew I had to be over there, so I ran all the way around the bottom of the Sambodromo and over to Setor 13 to the Tijuca pack.

That was a defining moment, for I'd cast my lot with Unidos da Tijuca. In fact I ended up standing in the battle zone right between Tijuca and Mangueira, which was definitely an interesting place to stand. The moment that you start screaming for Unidos da Tijuca when there are dozens of Mangueira fans on one side of you is an interesting moment. The moment that you start screaming because Mangueira got a bad score (thus helping Tijuca pull ahead) is an even more interesting moment.

It takes quite a while to read the results, since there are 10 categories, each with 5 judges, and 12 escolas. The sun was beating down and it was excruciatingly hot. Luckily the Rio city government had thought of this and had kindly stationed two fire engines, one at Setor 6 and one at Setor 13, and every now and then they'd spray us with FULL FORCE fire hoses. It was EXHILARATING. It was ICY COLD and COMPLETELY DRENCHING and we were ABSOLUTELY DRIPPING WET. It all added to the intensity of the moment as we were all being completely blasted by this fire hose, yelling TI-JU-CA! TI-JU-CA!

We'd gotten through several categories - Bateria, Conjunto and a few others - and it was clear Tijuca was doing very well. Lots of 10's (the maximum score). Tijuca had been tied for 2nd or 3rd for most of this, when suddenly, partway through the "Conjunto" category (this is a special category for overall effect of the entire parade), I noticed Tijuca had just pulled into the #1 spot on the big screen. I was actually the first Tijuca fan to notice this, because the others were all busy chanting something derogatory at the Mangueira fans, but a few seconds later a guy yelled "Olha a Tijuca! Olha a Tijuca!" pointing at the scoreboard and suddenly everybody realized we were ranked #1. Hot on our heels were Mangueira and Beija-Flor. You could feel an electic shock go through the Tijuca fans. The next category was Fantasias (costumes) and the one after that was Alegorias (floats). This was a critical moment, I thought; this is where we're going to find out if the judges really were won over by Paulo Barros' outrageous, funny, creative designs, or whether he was once again too unconventional for them, just too weird, too out there.

The first Fantasia judge's scores were read. At this point all that mattered to us were Unidos da Tijuca and Mangueira.
Unidos da Tijuca: 10.
Manguiera: 9.6.
The Mangueira fans actually gasped and the Mangueira girl on my right said in shock "Caramba!" (an expression of surprise).
I thought "Tijuca's going to win". I had no right to think this - there were still several categories to go, and we only had a lead maybe a tenth of a point, Mangueira was by no means out of the game (especially since the lowest score is automatically discarded, a new rule this year). And Beija-Flor was hot on our heels too. But suddenly I was sure. I ran straight out of the Sambodromo, ran 3 blocks to the first major street, flagged down a taxi and said "Take me to the quadra of Unidos de Tijuca!"

The taxi driver didn't say a word, just sped me out on the street toward the quadra, which fortunately is only about a 5 minute drive from the Sambodromo. His radio was already tuned to the Sambodromo announcements and we listened in silence as the scores for Floats were read out. Unidos da Tijuca... DEZ.

I got to the quadra. It was fairly quiet, just 2 beer vendors outside and a small trickle of fans heading inside. Inside were a rabid pack of maybe 100 Tijuca fans - not a ton of people, just the most dedicated. They were all clustered near the stage, sitting in rows of chairs that had been carefully set out in neat lines in front of a big-screen TV that was showing the live feed from the Sambodromo. By now we were in a tie with Beija-Flor. Result after result came in - DEZ, DEZ, DEZ, for Tijuca, but unfortunately it was also DEZ, DEZ, DEZ for Beija-Flor.

Then came the first 9.9 for Beija-Flor. Tijuca had gotten a DEZ.

Then another 9.9 for Beija-Flor. Tijuca had gotten a DEZ from that judge too.

Inch by inch, tenth by tenth, Beija-Flor fell a tenth behind, another tenth behind.... News photographers started showing up. First two, then four, then five of them. Nobody was in the chairs anymore; everybody was leaping and screaming. We alternated between singing bits of the Tijuca song, and chanting "O Paulo Barros voltou! O Paulo Barros voltou!" (Paulo Barros, Rio's most innovative carnaval designer, returned to Tijuca this year after a few years away. The entire Unidos da Tijuca parade had been designed by him.)

Another 9.9 for Beija-Flor. DEZ for Unidos da Tijuca. The big screen TV started having problems, flickering and going blurry, and we were all screaming so much we couldn't hear what the announcer was saying; so we were just peering at the flickery, blurry screen trying to make out whether it showed a "10" or not for Unidos da Tijuca. Sometimes an excited person on stage would veer in front of the big-screen projector, and the scores would end up shining somewhere on their body, wigglly and small, and we'd be peering at somebody's leg or chest trying to figure out if a certain wiggle was a "10" or a "9".

A small bateria had assembled out of random players in the audience, at first just 2 surdos and a few tamborins, but more and more players were arriving and it was getting stronger and stronger. A very strange-looking Unidos da Tijuca flag showed up - at first I thought it had caught on fire, but later I realized it was the flag that was used in the "undersea secrets" section of the parade, that had been made to look as if it had been undersea - deliberately stained and covered with barnacles and seaweed. (apparently the "good" flag was over at the Sambodromo). There were now 12 news photographers on stage. The strange seaweed-covered flag was whirling around. Now we were on the last category - the TV was so blurry I couldn't read it what category it was - and our second-to-last score came up. DEZ. The lowest score is discarded, so it didn't matter any more what the last score was. No one could touch us. We'd won. CHAOS in the quadra.

- cue endless dancing and singing of the Tijuca song. Somehow I acquire a Tijuca t-shirt that flies into my hand unexpectedly when I'm waving my hand around in the air.

Outside at this point were 6 TV vans, a 7th arriving, lighting guys setting up banks of light, journalists clutching pads of notes and interview questions, a special electrical generator truck squeezing painfully through a too-small alleyway, a helicopter circling overhead, 3 mysterious limos with smoked windows jammed in the entryway to the tiny parking lot. And 12 more beer vendors, 2 hot dog stands and 3 popcorn carts all rolling up (those guys are quick!) And floods and floods and floods of people arriving. Members of choregraphed alas and the commisao de frente showed up and started doing their dances. Everybody was singing the song, the "secrets" song that had won them so many 10's.

It took a while to sink in. They've really won. The brilliant underdog escola that's always unjustly the runner-up and never the winner. UNIDOS DA TIJUCA HAS FINALLY WON!